Urwerk UR-230 The final UR-230 features glass-fiber reinforced ceramic.
Urwerk's latest satellite display watch, the UR-230 Black Star, continues the brand's more than two decades-long innovation in the "wandering hour" complication. This concept first appeared on the Harry Winston Opus 5 and was perfected in the UR-210. The retrograde satellite display has become a signature feature of Urwerk, and the Black Star fully demonstrates its evolution.
This Black Star watch features a lightweight glass-fiber reinforced ceramic case and is limited to 35 pieces, seemingly the final product in the UR-230 series.
While Urwerk did not invent the wandering hour display, its contribution in bringing this complication to modern times in the late 1990s is undeniable. Although Urwerk has also ventured into traditional analog watches, the satellite hour display remains the essence of the Urwerk brand's DNA.
The UR-230's design is inspired by the UR-210, launched in 2012, which first featured a retrograde hand cage that moved for hours with the satellite cube hands. The concept of a retrograde hand paired with a wandering hour hand is even older, appearing as early as the 2005 Harry Winston Opus 5 watch, also designed by Urwerk.
While the UR-150 Scorpion further refined this concept, the UR-230 remains remarkably forward-thinking even after many years. The latest black and yellow color scheme seems to reflect current trends, complementing the brand's recent collaboration with Ulysse Nardin.
The signature detail of the Black Star watch is, of course, its black ceramic composite case. Despite its relatively large size (53mm long and 18mm thick), the UR-230 is remarkably lightweight and very comfortable to wear on the wrist (provided you're wearing short sleeves). The all-black exterior further minimizes the watch's visual presence, while the fine texture of the case is worth appreciating.
Considering the sophistication of this watch series, this is undoubtedly a considerable sum, but the upgraded base movement, the new case material, and other aspects that Urwerk has continuously improved over the years all justify the price increase.
Fading to Black
The Black Star's direct predecessor was the UR-230 Polaris, released a year prior. Like its bright white sibling, the Black Star's case was crafted from proprietary glass-fiber reinforced ceramic, combining some of the advantages of ceramic while being significantly less prone to breakage from drops.
This black composite material bears a resemblance to the forged carbon fiber cases popular a decade ago, but its ceramic inclusions undoubtedly make it far more robust and durable. The case is machined from a single piece of compressed, woven ceramic layers interwoven with glass and carbon fibers.
The marbled surface subtly reveals the details of the woven texture, a technical feel perfectly aligned with Urwerk's aesthetic philosophy. It's lightweight and comfortable, especially when paired with the brand's signature supple rubber strap, featuring a Velcro closure.
Automatic or Manual
One of the changes Urwerk has made since the release of the UR-210 has been the replacement of its base movement. The original Zenith Elite movement has been replaced by the Vaucher base movement, equipped with a free-sprung balance. While this change resulted in a slight increase in case thickness, it remains a commendable improvement, as the Vaucher movement is more in line with Urwerk's high-end positioning.
Despite the modifications to the base movement, this caliber retains the signature air brake turbine and allows for manual activation or deactivation of the automatic winding function. Given the sophistication of modern automatic winding systems, the practical value of this function remains unclear, but it is still an interesting way to interact with the movement.
Urwerk UR-230 Black Star
Case Dimensions: 44.81 mm x 53.55 mm; Case Thickness: 18.38 mm; Material: Glass-reinforced ceramic; Crystal: Sapphire crystal; Water Resistance: 30 meters
Movement: UR-7.30 Functions: Hours, minutes; Winding-regulating air brake system; Automatic winding on/off indicator Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) Winding Method: Automatic Power Reserve: 48 hours